If you apply a water-based product in cold conditions typical in winter in Gippsland (i.e. below 10C), loss of adhesion can occur and the coating may simply wash off when it rains. To rectify, thoroughly clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Scrape back all areas of poorly adhering or defective coatings to a firm edge and rub down to “feather” broken edges. Dust off and re-apply coating.

Foam rollers should not be used with water based paints. If you already have this problem there are two solutions. 1: Line with lining paper and repaint or 2: Rub down smooth and repaint

Yes, we can do an equivalent match on most colours.

This is usually caused by uneven paint application on broad, flat surfaces, or by over-applying on mouldings or rough-contoured surfaces. Also, failing to join up “wet edges” before they have set can cause excessive film thickness, resulting in sagging and running. When the paint film is thoroughly dry, rub down the sags/runs using wet and dry abrasive paper (or waterproof silicon carbide) together with warm water and detergent. To prevent sags/runs when painting broad, flat areas, work systematically and cross-brush each section into the next; finally using vertical strokes to gently lay off along the length of the surface.

This is where there is the appearance of dull or shiny blotches on the painted surface. It occurs due to a couple of main reasons: inadequate priming of surfaces that are porous and lack of correct painting techniques such as overlapping and not maintaining a good wet edge.

Powdery and chalky surfaces are quite common in older properties that have been painted with distemper or white wash. You should completely remove these coatings by washing with warm water and a detergent solution. Rinse with clean water and change the water regularly. If the surface still remains slightly chalky, seal with an appropriate sealant prior to finishing.

Blistering can occur on plaster if you overcoat solvent-based paints such as gloss or eggshell with a conventional emulsion in an area that suffers from high levels of condensation. To resolve the problem, scrape back the blistered paint until you have a firm edge, feather lightly with abrasive paper and dust off. Now spot, prime and bring forward any bare areas. Finally, repaint the surface using a thinned first coat of water-based eggshell followed by one or two full coats.

You’re using the wrong type of roller. For instance, if you use a sponge roller to apply water-based paints, air is injected into the wet paint film and the air bubbles burst, forming craters on the surface which dry unevenly. As a rule of thumb, use short pile rollers for flat surfaces, medium pile rollers for medium textures and long pile rollers for textured surfaces. After rolling, some paints, particularly solvent-based gloss, may need to be “layed-off” with a brush to eliminate foaming. To repair a foamy surface, thoroughly clean it down to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Rub down the surfaces with wet and dry abrasion and water or a suitable solvent. Finally, rinse down and allow to dry thoroughly before repainting. If this is impractical, line the walls before repainting.

“Hot” or “hungry” surfaces should be primed overall with very thin finishing coats of emulsion or Primer/Sealer prior to painting.

This is often caused by surface contamination such as wax. Unfortunately there’s only one thing for it. Completely remove all existing material and carefully clean down the surfaces. Allow to dry, then reapply coating.

Past water leaks or burst water pipes can cause water staining. Before repainting, ensure that the leak has stopped and the surface is thoroughly dry, then spot prime the affected area with a good primer. Heavy deposits of tar staining from cigarette smoke or soot staining from open fires are common causes of staining, especially on water-based emulsion paints. To prepare, wash the surface thoroughly with detergent solution and rinse frequently with clean water. Allow to dry, then prime. Conventional solvent-based finishes such as gloss can discolour with age, particularly in areas sheltered from natural daylight, this is known as yellowing. Prior to repainting, wash the surface with a detergent solution, rinse with clean water and allow to dry. It may be more advisable to use a water-based coating for a low light area.

This can be caused by dust and dirt in the air settling on the paint surface; by using a dirty paint brush, or by stirring skin into the paint. In either case, let the paint dry and harden, then rub down using wet and dry abrasive paper and warm water with a bit of detergent. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow it to dry before repainting. Use only good quality paint brushes and wash out with a little turpentine, making sure the brush is completely dry before starting work. Avoid stirring skin into the paint by straining before use.

Mould grows in conditions of high humidity, poor ventilation and on surfaces with a high moisture content. Condensation or poor air circulation is the main culprit in most cases. Mould can be very destructive to paint coatings and needs to be eradicated before applying paint. Treat affected areas with a fungicidal wash or similar. Leave for 24 hours, wash down to remove residues and allow to dry thoroughly. If necessary, repeat the treatment. Improving the ventilation and the use of mould inhibiting paints will reduce further contamination.

Saponification occurs when oil-based paints are softened and liquefied by the alkali in plaster when moisture is present. Materials containing cement or lime are strongly alkaline; gypsum plasters are usually not, but can become alkaline if gauged with lime or if it is brought forward from the backing during the drying phase. For these reasons, never use oil (solvent) based paints on plaster or masonry surfaces until they are completely dry in depth, then prime the surfaces with a good primer. Where saponification has occurred, completely remove the defective coating, wash down the surface and rinse with clean water. Allow to dry then prime.

It is quite normal for small cracks to appear in plaster on interior walls and ceilings, either through drying out in new homes or movement of the building in older homes. Simply cut out the cracks, dust off and fill with a suitable interior filler. Allow to dry, then rub down smooth and dust off to create a clean, smooth surface for decorating. To ensure even porosity, spot prime with a thinned coat of your finish.

If walls are damp, the source of the dampness needs to be found, e.g. broken rainwater pipes or defective pointing in brickwork. Walls must be dry before attempting any painting.

You don’t need a primer at all. After a thorough clean, apply one coat of a solvent-based product, thinned 10 per cent turpentine, followed by two full coats.

Pinholing in plaster surfaces is normally due to overpainting a very porous surface (either the plaster or a filler) without adequately thinning the priming coat. To remedy, repaint with two thinned coats.

It has most likely been caused by applying a thick, heavy coat of un-thinned paint to a textured or embossed surface. ‘Mud cracking’ can also be caused when the air temperature drops rapidly after applying a water-based product, or when over coating an emulsion without leaving sufficient drying time. The solution? Applying one or two thin coats will sometimes fill the cracks. Otherwise the best solution is to strip the surface, repaper and paint.

Like flaking, peeling results from paint losing its adhesion properties. Often caused by applying thick coatings to poorly prepared surfaces, e.g. unthinned emulsion onto distemper. The cure is to thoroughly scrape back all areas of poorly adhering or defective coatings to a firm edge. Finally, rub down to “feather” broken edges, dust off and repaint.