Yes, there is a very effective treatment for these types of vegetable growths, which are most likely to occur in damp conditions or on surfaces with a high moisture content. Before treating, first repair the source of any leaks and check for blocked air bricks and defective or missing DPC (damp proof course). Allow to thoroughly dry then treat affected areas with a good fungicidal wash. Leave for 24 hours, wash down to remove residues and allow to dry thoroughly before applying coating. Isolated algae patches on a building exterior may indicate structural defects and should be investigated by a reputable builder and/or building surveyor.

Yes, however, this is not an easy task. The preferred method would be to use a chemical stripper to soften the finish, remove with a metal scraper, followed by thorough sanding. N.B. Naked flames (blow torch/lamp) are not recommended if a wood stain is to be used, as the timber surface can become charred. Furthermore, they can be a serious fire risk, and their use should be avoided.

No. Failing to completely remove wood that has been exposed to weather and sunlight is a common cause of paint failure. Use a sander or scraper to remove the top surface layer of the grey wood, making sure that the surface is cleaned back to new sound wood. Prime all bare wood with a good primer or basecoat before repainting.

Common causes of bleeding from the surface below include old wallcoverings, bituminous paint and creosoted surfaces, so these should be completely removed before painting. If this is not possible apply one or, in severe cases, two coats of an appropriate primer. New creosote or bituminous materials ideally need to be aged for at least 12 months before painting.

Simply run a knife blade across the grain. This will only make a small indentation on sound timber, but on rotten timber the blade will sink in. The only cure is to cut out all the rotten wood and replace it with sound timber.

There are different solutions for each of these problems.

1. Staining caused by rust from old nails should be rubbed down to remove the rust, then prime any exposed metal with a good metal primer before painting.
2. Resin bleeding from knots in wood should first be removed with turpentine. Then seal the knots with two coats of a suitable knotting solution and repaint.
3. All solvent-based paints such as gloss will discolour or yellow with age. To treat, wash the surface thoroughly with detergent solution, rinse with clean water and allow to dry before repainting.
4. If the wood appears to be dirty, particularly around glazing rebates, it may be affected by fungal growth. Clean the surface thoroughly and treat with domestic bleach, or a fungicidal wash, before painting.

A new coat of paint can sometimes soften the previous coat and cause wrinkling or “lifting”. This can be the result of using a different type of new coating over the existing paint, or by applying a second coat before the first coat is fully dried. If paint is still soft, scrape off, wash with Mineral turpentine and recoat to correct film thickness. Allow to thoroughly dry (this may take a few weeks). Rub down until smooth and recoat. Totally strip back to a clean surface and repaint.

Powdery or chalky old paintwork is caused by the paint film wearing away due to exposure to weather. This natural erosion of the paint coating can often be removed by thoroughly washing down prior to repainting. If washing doesn’t remove a chalky surface, seal with an appropriate primer before painting, or in severe cases remove the chalky surface entirely.

Graffiti is a very difficult problem to deal with. Normal decorative paints are not suitable for painting over graffiti as many felt marker inks and aerosol spray paints tend to bleed through conventional coatings. Take great care when attempting to remove graffiti from unpainted surfaces, especially when the substrate is porous. Talk to us about Anti Graffiti products that are specially designed for regular washing and help to ease the removal of the graffiti.

Coarse or heavy brush marks are most likely caused either by painting onto a very porous surface, or applying paint in warm conditions. To get rid of the marks, first clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Rub down using water or a suitable solvent. Finally, rinse down and allow to dry thoroughly before applying a new coat of paint.

This is commonly caused by moisture beneath the paint film and by paint applied over grey denatured wood, dirt, oil, grease, polish and other surface contamination. Resin and resin gases from knots can also cause blistering, particularly where dark colours are used on external south facing surfaces. Wood movement, such as in joints in window frames, can lead to splits in the paint, allowing moisture to penetrate the wood and cause flaking. To prepare, scrape back areas of flaking or blistering paint to a firm edge and rub down to feather edges using an abrasive paper. If the problem is extensive, strip completely using a hot air gun or chemical paint remover. Clean out open joints with a stripping knife and dusting brush. Make good all open joints and surface imperfections.Treat knots and resinous streaks with one or two coats of a suitable Knotting Solution before priming. When finishing with water-based gloss or eggshell, use bleached white knotting, as brown shellac knotting may bleed through and cause discolouration.

This is caused either by different levels of porosity in the substrate or by uneven application. Usually, two thinned coats will rectify the problem. Rub down with a suitable abrasive, dust off and apply coating.

Adhesion failure on metal substrates, resulting in blistering, flaking/delamination and corrosion, is usually due either to surface contamination or poor surface preparation. Among the most common types of surface contamination are grease on new galvanised surfaces and wax residue resulting from the use of chemical paint strippers, which should be cleaned with an emulsifying Oil and Grease Remover. Dust and general debris should always be vacuumed away before painting. In terms of surface preparation, the failure to remove mill scale from hot rolled mild steel prior to painting can lead to serious problems months or even years later. Similarly, painting over rust can result in the paint film flaking or the rust breaking through the paint film.

Blisters in any coating form as the result of isolated areas of poor/insufficient adhesion of the coating to the surface beneath. This phenomenon occurs especially in warm and sunny weather, and is often related to the expansion of air in the wood pores, the gassing of gums or resin, or the evaporation of trapped moisture, which pushes the coating film away, shortly after application.

The most common causes are moisture beneath the paint film and paint applied over dirt, oil, grease or onto a poorly prepared, powdery surface. Water-based coatings may blister if applied over surfaces previously painted with solvent-based paints or primed with a solvent-based stabilising primer that isn’t thinned prior to application. To remedy the problem, scrape back all poorly adherent coating to a firm edge and abrade shiny surfaces with abrasive paper.

These appear as a result of salts crystallising in materials such as bricks and plaster or render. The fluffy deposits can be removed by dry brushing, repeated every few days until the deposits disappear. Harder deposits can be sanded to roughen the surface, then painted over. Conventional solvent-based paints should not be applied on new buildings where these can often occur, for at least 12 months, to allow the surface time to dry out thoroughly. Use a reputable primer prior to applying any solvent-based finishes.

When an under-surface shows through a painted surface, it is said to be “grinning through”. This can happen when a paint fails to completely cover the under-surface, or when an incorrect undercoat has been used for a gloss system. To correct the grinning, thoroughly clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants, rub down with a suitable abrasive, dust off and repaint.

Surfaces where the colour has faded due to exposure from ultraviolet sunlight should be thoroughly cleaned down to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Then rub down with a suitable abrasive, dust off and paint over. Weathered woodwork previously coated with a wood stain or varnish should be thoroughly prepared to remove all denatured timber prior to redecoration.

There’s only one way to remove depressions or surface blemishes caused by rain spotting. Clean down the surfaces to remove all dirt, grease and surface contaminants. Then rub down the surfaces with Wet & Dry abrasion, using water or a suitable solvent. Finally, rinse down and allow to dry thoroughly before applying a new coat of paint.

A paint film that has dried in this condition is mechanically weak and needs to be completely removed. Carefully clean down the surfaces and allow it to dry before reapplying paint.

Condensation forming on the surface soon after application can take the gloss of new paintwork. This can be caused by painting in cold, damp conditions or painting outside when rain or frost are imminent (typical Gippsland winter conditions). Porous under-surfaces can also absorb gloss and make it appear dull. To remedy, lightly abrade the surface and apply a further finishing coat of paint when conditions are more favourable.

The paint can’t adhere to the surface because of contamination by oil, grease, wax or polish. So the paint draws back, leaving unpainted areas, usually in the form of small spots. To remedy the situation, if the paint is still wet, wash it all off, allow the surface to dry and thoroughly harden, then rub it down using wet and dry abrasive paper (or waterproof silicon carbide) and warm water with a bit of detergent. Rinse the surface thoroughly and allow it to dry before repainting.

This wrinkling effect can occur when paint dries too quickly, forming a surface skin before the paint underneath can dry properly. Overcoating a previous undercoat or gloss too soon can also cause this problem, as can applying oil-based coatings too quickly at low temperatures. Before attempting to smooth out the wrinkles, allow the surface to dry and harden, then rub down using wet and dry abrasive paper with warm water and detergent. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow it to dry before repainting. If still wet/soft then scrape off and if this is extensive, strip all off.

There are a number of causes but the main ones are:

1. Certain types of sand used in the construction or rendering of a building can cause staining, as can certain kinds of brick hollow clay pots or clinker blocks containing soluble salts. Pieces of ferrous metal or iron stone embedded in the material can rust and discolour when the surface is painted. These problems can be treated by sealing the affected areas with good primer, one that resists alkaline.
2. Rust staining can occur where old nails are left in the substrate, or a wire brush has been used to prepare the surface. In this case, prime those areas with a good metal primer.
3. Steel reinforcing in concrete may be too close to the surface and cause rusting. The only effective way to resolve this problem is to get back to the metal itself and treat the cause of the rust then make any necessary repairs to the surface and repaint.